Tuesday 28 January 2014

My Blog by himself - old fossils, and some funnies

This is himself speaking, any mistakes I don’t care!

We decided to have breakfast this morning on the roof terrace, it was great to see the hustle and bustle starting in the city of Chennai. You know how busy its getting by the number of times car horns are sounding every second. Herself (she who must be obeyed) decided to have a change  of diet for breakfast  and had a vegetarian omelette, I stuck to the normal bowl of thickener aka porridge.

 We picked our belongings up and after an uneventful stay in the smallest room decided it was time /safe to go.




Just for a change we went to see a load of old fossils, not the living sort, in the Government Museum which turned out to be quite interesting.  On leaving the museum about 100 immaculately turned out cheery school girls arrived, and we spent the next two minutes walking along the line saying Hi.  Everybody wanted to say Hello, to the embarrassment of the teachers.

Herself , never wanting to miss the opportunity of experiencing the local culture, made a visit to the powder room.  She said there were no doors on the “squatters” and promptly slipped on the very wet clean floor, narrowly avoiding disaster but damaged one of her expensive diamond flip flops.  She was horrified to see the diamond disappearing down the hole!  Anyway, long story short, I ended up taking herself shoe buying again.  The three assistants attending to her feet asked why I didn’t join in on the discussion!  All is well herself has new shoes, I have new shorts and shirts from and very nice western mall  


 I treated herself to a mango ice cream
 .  We had lunch at Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant.  Herself opted for the South Indian Thali £1.20 and I had the Special Thali, £1.50 and in no particular order this is what we had:
Spice Tomato Soup with Croutons,
4 Poppadum
Yellow Lentil Fry, Plain yoghurt, Coconut & Poppy Seed sweet sauce
Okra Curry with mild Spices
Tomato & Turmeric  Curry
Brinja (maybe aubergine stuffed with Onions, Chili & garlic topped with poppy seeds,
2 Chapattis, Gunpowder pickle
Paddy field of boiled rice,
Gallupjamons (aka Elephant balls) &  coconut mango & pineapple set in a jelly
Fresh fruit Salad & Ice Cream
Herself didn’t get any deserts in her menu, and the waiter said there was no sharing – so I didn’t!!
In exchange for which she’s had all the hot water tonight, happy days……..

 We are getting ready for the next leg of our adventure to the Andaman & Nicobar islands via Port Blair.  We fly tomorrow at 10.30 am.
If there is no sign of a blog for a few days it will be because of communication problems, but rest assure we will do catch up.
To finish and as I am charge of the blog tonight, I thought you might be interested in a few signs seen on the back of autorickshaws,  getting the drivers to use the meter is a Vatican certified miracle!
My Boss is a Jewish Carpenter
Leprosy is curable and a sign by a whopping hole in the road, by cow corner , “Manhole Plumbing – Most regrettable”  bye for now Himself xx



Monday 27 January 2014

City Tour

Collection of birds in decorative cages in the reception of the Peace Park Hotel, they tweet until the early hours,.  Must send himself to put a cover over them at bedtime!

Our laundry arrived back this morning 2 shirts and some trousers for £1.35 wrapped up in two sheets of the Hindu Times. Didn't throw this away, locals use it for another purpose!
We hired an English speaking slow driving taxi for a tour of the city.  Today is a Hindu Festival day and there were flowers strewn along the roads, Hindu's singing and firecrackers going off.  We went to the local temple and removed our shoes to go in. We followed the other visitors, no other white people just us two.

In the centre of the Astalashmi temple  they all sat down to wait for their lunch to be served to them at no cost.  We didn't stay for lunch, we carried on our walk around, himself was approached by the Swami who painted his forehead with red clay.  I passed on this one.  


 We left the temple for another religious place.














  The taxi drivers are determined to make better people out of us.  This time it was a Roman Catholic Church and as luck would have it there was a film crew recording.  We stuck out like a sore thumb, no wonder they asked us to be movie stars for the day. Himself said a few words on behalf of the people of the "Cotswolds" in England.  We wandered off to the Fort of St George, but it was another museum, and to be honest, we were getting hungry, so gave it a flying visit





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The driver took us to Chennai Egmore Station which is a huge place and showed us to a cafe across the road. It was not quite what we expected but we ordered a vegetarian Businessmen's Chennai Lunch costing £1.10 each. It comprised of Tomato Soup (with Chilli), Popadom & Pickles, then the vegetable thali that is in the picture, followed by sweet tapioca & ice cream.  It was great! Lunchtime nirvana and fab sweets!

From bustling Chennai to peaceful Ponducherry on Sunday

Yesterday we felt as though Scottie had beamed us  down on to another planet.   We decided to escape the heat (35c) and dust of Chennai and go out to Ponducherry.  The hotel arranged a formula one apprentice with a love of loud Indian music to take us.  We guessed there was something suspect when our first port of call was to collect a spare tyre at which point, himself quickly put on his seat belt.
 Ponducherry is about 150 k from Chennai, so we knew we were in for a long haul.  It took about 20 minutes to get out of the city, and as it was 69th anniversary celebrations of Independence, the government had given everyone the day off  -Sunday.  There were marches, parades and firecrackers going off all over the place.  The traffic was solid, motorised rickshaws, scooters, cars, bikes, cycles  and goods vehicle and the odd cow all vying for position.  At the traffic lights it was like a formula one start.  I read a sign on the back of a rickshaw that said
Life is safe
If drive is safe
Life not a race
If you drive with grace. 
We soon got into the green and lush countryside  along the East Coast Road with goat farms, fields of crops, coconut palms, pasture and thatched houses.  We saw Pelicans flying over the salt flats and egrets in the paddy fields.  We stopped for fresh pineapple juice and watched the ladies selling huge Jackfruit.
We make it safely to Ponducherry after a couple of near misses overtaking, and two definite nudges on a couple of cows crossing the road.  The formula one apprentice  was sorted by himself, he slowed slightly and the radio got switched off!
Ponducherry has a large French quarter and we made our way for lunch to a quiet little bistro serving delicious food. Himself observed that the police in Ponducherry wore a traditional French Police hat.
After a tour of local churches and temples we returned to Mamallapuram to the Shore Temple built in 700 AD with blocks of stone stuck together with a mixture  of  sand, crushed seashells, black sugar and egg whites – see, I was listening to the guide.   The Indians promenade along the sea shore and there are hawkers selling all sorts of stuff – mainly junk,  I succumbed to the pleadings of one little girl and himself moaned because I gave up bartering and just gave her a £1 for 4 necklaces, Oxfam ahoy.

Here we are at a Hindu shrine, not to be walked on - but they weren't bothered by the goat.
You will note I am covered, shoulders and legs, as it is sign of respect for all religions in southern India.  We have however, seen western women with shorts and strappy tops who have been frowned upon and treated with disrespect by the locals.



Tamil flower sellers just outside our hotel

Saturday 25 January 2014

Chennai (Madras), Hot, manic, but magical

We got to the airport in Goa at 4.30 am, it was a real trial, especially as we have not been up before 9am most days.
The airport was busy and apparently everyone was checked in, so we took off  with the very efficient Air India 15 minutes early and even got upgraded seats


Because of that we arrived in Chennai in rush hour.  Boy was it manic!  It was a bit like a demolition derby but worse.  We are confident they are telepathic, seven lanes of traffic on a three lane highway!  To make things worse our pre-paid government taxi driver spoke limited English and when he handed me his phone with all the numbers worn off and asked me to ring the hotel for directions I thought it was time to take things in hand.  Out with the I phone and job done.

Our hotel is an oasis in the middle of a manic metropolis.  Having spent a quiet two weeks on the beach we cant believe how busy it is.  Our room is splendid, the first thing we did was sit on the bed and there was some give! Result, comfy bed, lovely room, wifi, but no alcohol served!







Richard has been unwell, you could say he met the gravy train, but several Imodium later we left the hotel on foot for a local temple.  We were briefly interrupted by a rickshaw driver , while I was scraping the cow muck off my flipflop, who said he had a Ferrari and did we want showing round.  A guided tour for £4, how could we resist. We toured two Temples, the Basilica, the Tomb of St Thomas,  fish market, compulsory arts and crafts shop and the biggest beach in Asia, where 300 people lost their lives in the tsunami. 
Part of the guided tour, a Military
display for tomorrows celebrations.

Picture at the top of the blog is Kapaleeswarar Temple, if you magnify the picture you will see some amazing detail.  While we were photographing it we me an American lady who was drawing the temple.  She greeted us like long lost friends when we said we were staying for 4 weeks, but then was very sad when we said we move on Wednesday.  She was the only other white face we have seen all day.

Himself is feeling better and decided on Egg & Chips for a safe option. This took some explaining but when it arrived it was hard boiled eggs, battered and deep fried, the chips were sprinkled with masala powder; heaven help us for breakfast!

Friday 24 January 2014

Goodbye Goa



On my morning walk I asked a policeman on the beach where  I was , and he asked me why did I want to know?  I had been walking in the same direction for 30 mins and was sure I was in a different village. He was doing a crossword and listening to the cricket.


The beach venders had one final push, but they assured us it was genuine gold and silver jewellery,  and of course I promised the manicurist that I would be there on Monday for a tidy up ;) The bar owners have wished us well, whilst trying to sort out accommodation for next year!





Its our last day in Varca, Goa and we have really enjoyed our stay here.  It been made special by lots of different people we have met.  We had our last supper with friends Ann, Steve & Jacky, Gene & Lin, and had a sumptuous seafood assortment of Lobster, crab, pomfit, seabass & king prawns.


Party Games with Joe at Feedmore Cafe
Just in case you dont here from us for a day or two dont worry ! Wifi is sketchy!



Tomorrow we go to Chennai (Madras) with a pick up by Albert our trusty driver at 3.45 am ready for a 7.30 am flight.

Thursday 23 January 2014

Gone fishin' but just something missin'



The boys have decided to book a fishing trip to catch enough fish for tonight’s dinner.  The girls decided to pre order lobster, crab, king prawns, mackerel, pomfret and seabass just in case they catch nothing.  Arrangements were made and they left really early 7am.  It  might not sound early to you but if we manage to get out of the apartment by 10.30 we’re having  really a good day!  Himself was shaved and breakfasted and travelling light.  He said that Steve,  the Captain, had everything sorted and as himself  was only classed as a deckhand he had nothing to worry about.


They travelled by taxi to Cavelossim and joined the boat on the Sal River before going out to sea.  It had clouded over and there was a light shower of rain, but not enough to deter the eager fishermen.

As in the tradition of the Navy when on exercise, a tot of rum, was dispensed by captain Steve to the lower ranks; on this occasion, a swig from the bottle. It was commented that it was only 8 o’clock in the morning and a prompt response from the crew was that it was opening time somewhere in the world!  Our intrepid fisherman then baited their rods and sat in anticipation of the first whopper.  They sat and they  sat until the captain landed the first fish a tiddler.  The crew commented that the boat boy had been absent for a short while and may have slipped over the side and hooked it on his line. 


Gene caught a particularly feisty eel, the boat boy took one look and cut the line and to set it free.
It was a good job the girls had pre-empted the enormous catch, three tiddlers and an eel so at least we will eat tonight.

This is Matt with his catch, above is Captain Steve and when the girls see this lot there will be some serious ribbing at dinner tonight. Needless to say himself caught his usual haul - nowt!
Unfortunately due to poor wifi I cant get pics etc to load...............more tomorrow

Wednesday 22 January 2014

Change, chainsaws and chaos!



We shall miss our cool airy apartment, especially in the morning, having coffee on the balcony , watching the stork billed Kingfishers, with just the swishing of the palms, calls of the sea eagles and the bells of Varca church.  This morning was very relaxing especially as we rocked up to the Reggae night at Pedro’s in Benaulim last night.  Graham the trumpet player & singer, and Alan the guitarist played a couple of sets of Bob Marley and various reggae numbers that had the whole place dancing including me and himself. 

We popped to the ATM machine this morning, dodging “Pinky & Perky” at pig corner and Richard came out with a wad of notes! Rupees are not as filthy as they used to be.  We notice that there is a definite shortage of change.  The lowest denomination is 10r , so the shop owner has to either discount down, unlikely,  or give you something else in exchange.  From the supermarket it is usually toffees or on a really good day tiny bars of dairy milk! Mmmmm, cant see that ever happening in Tesco.  I think I told you I had bought half of Boots with me, well I’ve just bought the other half from the village pharmacy .  We bought himself some Naproxen, he strained his back lifting his wallet on the first day and has whinged steadily ever since.  Also on the shopping list was paracetamol 7p  ibroprufen 7p, Imodium  – you never know your lousy luck and at just 40p for 20 you cant really say no. We also bought our Malaria tabs those cost £7, just a little different to  the £90 each last time, same brand.  Of course there was no change at the Pharmacy so we had it in throat lozenges.

We’d just had Tandoori Chicken and a couple of beers and sat on the beach when the bar owners started shouting “everyone off the beach”.  It was dead calm out to sea, people started to panic, I thought there was a tsunami coming, they shouted with such urgency,  Waiters  pulled up umbrellas and started ushering people away I ran to find out what was going on, only to be told that the Police were on the way up the beach and they were confiscating sunbeds over the limited number allowed for each bar, and cutting them up with a chainsaw!  Yikes!  Then a couple of international incidents broke out when the first people they tipped off their chairs were the Russians.  These were followed swiftly by the Germans and when they tried to shift three Chinese things started to get out of hand. They flatly refused to be moved and commenced to make a makeshift fruit salad with pineapples and oranges and threw the peelings at the waiter.  Hells bells I could write a book about this lot.  The British were of course calm and collected and offered to bribe the police if necessary, but the bar owner raised his eyebrows and said I don’t think so.

I bought myself a new sunhat, my hair is not like its usual golden silk J but like straw.  My original hat I put in the washer, it said handwash, but I’ve always thought handwashing was for wimps.  I now have a hat suitable for an 8 year old.  I also bought some tat off the beach hawkers a nice little bracelet, bound to make the arm go green and a genuine pair or Ray Bans


Monday 20 January 2014

Food for thought



When you think of Indian food you automatically think of curry.  Well, we haven’t seen a single one on any menus.  Anyone who knows himself, knows how passionate he is about food, and he’s been keeping a note of different recipes he’s managed to extract from people.  I’m sure that most of these will be easily accessible on the net.  For those foodies amongst you these are some of our favourites :-
Calamari Chilli fry (incredibly spicy but fantastic) – Joes at Feedmore CafĂ©
Dahl Makhani – (Rogers beachside)
Paneer Manchurian
Goan Chicken Xucuti (Mammas)
Yellow Fried Dhal
Afghan Chicken (superb from Joes)
Chicken Mughali  & Paneer Makhani  (Mahals beachside)
Tandoori & Chicken Tikka (Joes) the best we have ever had!
Vegi & Chicken Biryani (Mahans)
The mose sumptuous Cheese & Garlic Naan - everywhere
And many more

We have been spying on the Russians, there are a lot out here,  and note they only ever eat fish.  They also never barter for anything, big mistake.  They asked the price of the crabs at Mammas Beachshack and the waiter said he would get one for them to look at.  He promptly jumped on his Lambretta and sped along the beach, returning with a fresh one still moving.  He asked 2500 rupees for it (£25) and they had it! They pay through the nose for a lot of the stuff, we know the crab is generally about £7.50 for a biggy for four people.

I have been vegetarian for the most of the time, for no other reason than the food is so tasty, but got the aroma of cooking bacon from some neighbours nearby.  I also found out that the egg man also delivers fresh bread rolls (indian barms).  So I was up very early dashed down to meet the eggman and for 12 rupees (12p) I got four still warm barms.  Yummy bacon barms, himself asked what no brown sauce? But hey, you cant have everything. 
The Eggman




We think we are about to become dhal addicts, a lentil dish with chilli and spices, we cant do a meal without some – but the windpower has been epic, much to our amusement and  prompting complaints from 2 floors below!
I went shopping alone today, just odds and sods really and we usually walk across some waste land which cuts the corner into the village, but I had to make a hasty retreat after two pigs chased me.
Newsflash – We’ve seen a cloud, but just the one!


A close shave with Phil the Blade


I decided to go with himself to the local barbers shop.  Phil the barber ushered us in and we watched him cutting a gentleman’s hair, and a very good job he made.  There was another young guy in the queue but Phil called himself into the chair.  He cleansed his face then applied a moisturiser, then the shaving cream.  He put a new blade in and away he went.  I took a quick photo and legged it, I’ve never liked the sight of blood, but I don’t suppose it would show on the red silk gown.  He made a good job, ears, nose and sideboards, which appear to be getting shorter.  Lin and I wondered if he did women’s legs , but the thought of a brazillian/goan, put us right off!




I seem to remember that I said there were no wandering animals anymore – wrong, there was a frisky steer heading down the main road, helped along by a few whacks from the stall holders whose fruit and veg he’d taken a liking to.

Himself has started talking with an Indian accent,  its very disconcerting, I just hope to him above that he doesn’t start wobbling his head.

Eye up, himself  says I cant hold my stomach in much longer !!!

Sunday 19 January 2014

Birthday Blog



The egg man blows his bicycle horn at 7 .20 every morning, he has a huge basket of  delicious  white eggs at 40 rupees (40p) a dozen.  So yesterday morning I was up with the crows to open my birthday cards.
 I did intend to dance like a diva, drink like a student and sleep like a baby, but thought I really should act my age,
 It was a pretty normal day, rickshaw to the beach, prawn biryani for lunch and then out for the evening with friends who are staying nearby. Would you believe it they used to have a unit down on Honeybourne airfield!  We knew all the same places and some mutual friends – how weird is that?

This morning we woke to the sound of hymn singing and a marching band from the local Catholic Church; they are a very religious people in Goa, most people go to church on Sunday, they have 3 masses with 350 people at each in our village alone. It’s the festival of St Sebastian and there’s to be a parade through the village tonight.

Today we chatted to three very senior Brits who were telling us about their adventures around India. They have been coming here for nearly 60 years.  I asked them where they were staying and they answered in unison “Barking dog corner”.
I walk for miles along the beach every day and today the Police beach patrol were supervising a game of cricket – what else is there to do?  Well apparently the Russian ladies like to go topless, which is a complete no no here.  One was fined £50 for walking along the road from the beach in a very skimpy bikini and what was described by one of the beach hawkers as an eye patch for the bottoms!

Everyone loves to talk, the lifeguards always say hello Momma to me, and Nepal the security guard loves to have a chat.  Himself told him we were going skinny dipping last night in the dark and asked him if we could borrow his torch.  Bless him, he went into the guardhouse to find one – I had to tell him we were having a laugh. This afternoon when we came home Nepal had a very short haircut, himself asked him where he had it done and he said that damn barber who got you!



Circus comes to our beach shack

Festival of St Sebastian